Vibrant Paris!

If one is looking for a heightened, multi-sensory approach to one's travels, then one should head to Paris!

From the moment my Thalys train from Brussels arrived speedily to La Gare du Nord, in Paris, the experience began instantly.

It took over half an hour to get a cab driver willing to take me to my destination. A group of drivers were arguing over their disinterest to "pick me up" and drive me to La Place de L'Opéra. Just hearing them converse would make one think that I was asking them to drive me to some hell hole on earth! Granted I did arrive on le 14 juillet, also known as French National Day (Bastille), where streets and major arteries were closed down for parades and celebrations.

One brave cabdriver, outside of the ones arguing, walked over to me and offered to take me. Wow! I quickly understood why. He had set up a live feed of the parade on one of his many smart phones. No, I didn't ask any questions! As it turned out, he knew which streets were open and which remained closed.

I thanked him for his bravery, quick thinking and dropped off my luggage, in my closet, also known as my hotel room, complete with a bathroom with no shower curtain or glass. I knew what it was like to be Moses parting the sea after my shower! What a disastrous mess.

So now, I am in Paris again after close to ten years, maybe twelve years. Having walked around what I knew well, namely Place Vendôme, Place de la Concorde, Place de l'Opéra and le Jardin des Tuileries, I was happy to see that many of my favorite eateries and shops were still there. It was comforting to see. My all time favorite Salon de Thé Angelina was still there, on rue de Rivoli. Much like Schwartz's in Montreal, the line ups outside this coffee shop/pastry store are surreal.

Toward late afternoon, I had noticed throngs of people gathered at the majestic Opera House, with busts of the many great composers of times gone by. I made my way to see a busker perform for what seemed like a thousand gathered people, from all walks of life. Tourists or locals, elderly or young, ultra religious or not, rich or poor, drunk or not found themselves standing or sitting side by side, listening to Youri from Capri, Italy sing originals as well as covers from Adele to Freddie Mercury.

I found myself a spot on the steps of the Opera House and basked in his rendition of songs. I listened to what brought this man to leave his "Mama and pasta" and travel the world to find himself. He connected with the crowd through his usage of multiple languages, his tales and his music, which explained how all these differences stood side by side.

A great first day in Paris!

Picturesque Bruges and its Lake of Love

Bruges looks like a fairy tale, complete with meandering canals, narrow cobblestone streets, gabled homes, a charming market square and a tranquil Lake of Love, first founded in 1245 by the Countess Margaret of Constantinople.

The tour guide explained that this Countess was a begijns, a religious woman, similar to a nun, in that these women accepted vows of chastity and obedience but preferred to earn a living by looking after the sick and making lace.

These religious women are no longer around and Benedictine Nuns continue the begijns traditions. The beguine courtyard is a tranquil zone and the Lake of Love is a peaceful place to roam and ponder.

Within my tour group, I befriended a gentleman, an avid photographer, from Quebec City no less. We both happened to be trapped in a mostly German group. It didn't take long for both of us to escape and discover Bruges with our lenses in tow.

We meandered through the tranquil oasis of the Lake of Love and its garden and walked the narrow cobblestone roads. Note to self, runners next time to handle the uneven grounds with less plantar pain.

Early afternoon, we took a canal ride along the river to see Bruges through a different angle. The landscape was magical!

We ended our jaunt at the market square, sat at a terrace and savored Belgian beer, as I was still on a mission to try out their other delightful labels. Not sure my luggage can handle these beer bottles! What to do? Perhaps, ship them?

Blessed in Brussels

This Caspian Jewess was blessed today, in a church in Brussels, by a man, with his hands dipped in blessed water which he in turn used to touch my forehead and either shoulders.
The odd part isn't that this man reached out to me, or that I found peace in a church; rather the peculiar thing was more when it happened. I was leaving the church and throngs of people were entering at that same moment. When the last person entered, he stared at me, dipped his fingers in the holy water and began the ritual.

Why?
Did he sense I was a member of another tribe? Did he feel I needed a blessing? Is this customary in a church to enter and bless the person leaving?
One thing for sure, we both held each other's gaze.

With that in mind, I felt blessed for a variety of reasons. I discovered a cute little organic bakery, Le Pain Quotidien, which offered a variety of organic breads and viennoiseries for breakfast in a family style atmosphere. Huge farmer style dining tables, an array of sour cherry jam jars, churned butter and other spreads. It was a great way to mingle with the locals and start up conversation or sit back quietly and read the local paper.

I also feel blessed for being at ease to roam the winding, cobblestone roads map free! It is a great feeling to know that you can make your way in a foreign city. I know some of my friends will be amused with this particular section of the blog, as they know that there are certain zones in my hometown where I require the use of my handy dandy Tom Tom. Perhaps the pedestrian lifestyle is more my calling?

Last but not least, I feel blessed to be in a foodie's paradise, in Brussels. Surrounded by delicious beers, chocolatiers galore, baked goods and waffle central, I am grateful to be car less, and aimlessly walking about to burn some semblance of these delicious calories!

Pilatus Kulm

As a seasoned traveler, I try my best to avoid tour companies. Over time, I have come to discover, that even as a solo traveler, I am not a huge fan of big groups, obnoxious people in droves, and tired tour guides who have perhaps done the tour one too many times.

That being said, every once in a while, I cave and join a tour company for the day when I wish to discover a place far enough that requires some explaining and some transportation.

Which brings me to Pilatus Kulm, not far from Lucerne. In 2009, I had done Rigi Kulm with this same tour company and was immensely pleased. I was hoping for the same wow factor. Needless to say, the people in the group can make the experience worth while or break it.

Pilatus in itself was a beautiful mountain, at about 7000 feet above sea level. Long time ago, the clergy believed that the mountain was demonized with dragons. It took the clergy a few attempts to trust that the great Pilatus was a safe place and so it was re-opened, once again to the general public.

To get to the top of this mountain, there are two gondola rides which bring tourists to bask in the views of Swiss Alps.
I failed to mention that while on the bus, there was a huge Iranian group from California. I am not proud to say that they were fellow Caspian Sea dwellers. I am also sad to say that understanding every word that came out of their mouths was embarrassing at best.

I guess the buck stopped when this one couple and a silver haired gentleman, all decked in designer labels and heavy perfume began to speak behind my back as we were lined up for a four seater gondola ride.
I was lined up ahead of them and overheard Agha Smelly Pants (Agha meaning Mister) say to his travel buddies that I hope to god we are not going to be stuck with that loner on the bus....we won't be able to be just us.

And so what do you think This Caspian Princess spewed? Take a wild guess? Please.

In a stiff Farsi, (their mother tongue), I said: did you maybe think I may not want to be stuck with the three of you on this Gondola? But seeing as my mother raised me well, please won't you step in?

I love the shock factor. For one, I don't look my heritage. Two, it is quite handy to have a semblance of language in a functional state for that special moment.

Well, needless to say, they climbed aboard and I surprisingly made friends.
At least, they thought so. They even had me sit next to Mister Smelly Pants and took our picture for posterity sake.
Obviously what followed was idle chit chat about my genealogy and the excitement ended once my mother was from Haifa. Mister Smelly Pants quickly mentioned that in the 16 Iranian couples, there was a token Jew amongst them. It's your family, you should meet them,he said.

Oh boy!
How to loose them on The Great Mount Pilatus?

Scheuble Hotel and the Red Light District

Scheuble Hotel is a delightful, three star Boutique hotel, centrally located in Old Town Zurich. At the time of booking it online, I had read the reviews, and was pleased with the appearance, location and value. Breakfast and Internet included, what more would The Caspian Princess need, after all?

My room is on the third floor of this beautiful building. My room is a trapezoid, complete with a balcony and a huge window. No need for air conditioning, as there is a lovely breeze coming through.

The pièce de resistance is the evening entertainment from my "Juliette" balcony. At about 7pm, the sun has yet to set, and stunning Romanian young women, in sexy dresses and killer heels make their way a few feet away from my balcony. And so begins the strutting.

Contrary to other Red Light Districts in various cities, the sleaze factor has been removed. Perhaps, this Red Light District is not as entertaining as the one in Amsterdam, as the ladies are not sitting in store windows, in a boudoir state.

The Swiss experience is somewhat classy. I laugh as I am typing this, as the ladies are quite classy looking, complete with mani/pedi, matching shoes and clutch, blow dried hair and scents of freshness. Don't get any crazy ideas, as the only way to get to one's hotel is through this sexy, classy maze.

Clearly, one can see the benefit of legalizing Hookerville! Oddly enough, the Swiss Polizei circulate to protect the Johns. These classy broads are known to be aggressive!

Don't let Hookerville deter you from staying at Scheuble Hotel, as to balance it all there is a delightful church that rings its bells every hour on the nose!
Amen!

Wanderlust

The desire to travel, blend in with the locals, to bathe in the local culture, to taste the culinary delights are all ingredients for my perfect wanderlust.

It takes me close to a year to plan my summer trips. The ten days to two weeks, where my sons are off with their father, enable me to escape and wander off in hope for adventure, a little bit of a creative outlet, meeting new faces and hearing their stories, all the while hoping to learn something new.

Which brings me to the start of this summer's adventure, Switzerland! The flight in was pleasant and surprisingly restful. I shockingly napped. In best of circumstances, I sleep poorly back home, and yet the plane ride lulled me to sleep.

Once I landed in Zurich's Flughafen, I walked over to the rail way station to purchase a ticket to Old Town Zurich. Somewhere between buying the ticket and closely watching two young lovers reunite near an escalator, I got lost.

I chose to follow the lovers, who amused me immensely, instead of getting on my specific train, heading to my hotel. En effect, j'ai pris le chemin des écoliers! What if I said, it was well worth it, even in my semi jet lagged self?

This couple, in their twenties, had just caught up at the train station. The young man appeared to be living in Zurich, even though he appeared far from being a local. He seemed to be an English speaking foreigner.

The young lady flew from Toronto, spoke English decently, French barely and hints of German as it was far from fluid.

He greeted her with a multi-colored bouquet of roses and they shared a tender moment...and so began my journey with this couple.

Throughout the train ride, they spoke of oddities, in a broken version of English, French, and German. Neither accents were well respected and a few times, I had to hold back from asking them what is their actual mother tongue.

In Quebec, I had heard of Franglais, a mangled version of French and English; alas, their version was foreign to me.
These two managed to bastardize all three languages in a delightful, bemusing way. One couldn't help but be drawn and entertained...until of course, one realized one's train was heading the wrong way.

It took me forty minutes to make my way back to Old Town Zurich, a train, two buses and a tram plus a lot of walking with luggage, up a cobblestone, winding road.
Welcome to Zurich!

Ode to Technology!!

I found myself pondering about technology.
Perhaps it had something to do with my twitter post, this morning.
It appears I lost 7 pounds.
Did I? When did that happen?
My account was hacked.
Seems to be a common occurrence these days when one juggles email accounts, twitter, Facebook,  LinkedIn and so on and so forth.

Over a delightful morning brew with Baileys, I began thinking about when did I get all involved with technology.
My earliest memory of technology brings me back to my tween years, visiting San Diego, roaming the aisles of Price Club (now Costco). My uncle and my father were looking through the "computer" aisles and hearing them both chime in that "these look like the wave of the future".
They were staring at a Commodore 64.

We brought one home that summer.
We plugged it in.
We patiently waited for something to start.
Yet the screen was lit. The cursor was blinking.
But now what.

It took my father a while to realize we had no softwares installed on the unit.
And yet the manufacturer's box advertised all sorts of "nifty"things this Commodore 64 could do.
But now what?

My dad hired a son's friend who was ten or so years older than I.
He was a university computer science student.
He had a friendly disposition.
He taught my sister and I the basics of programming and algorythms.

It got boring.
In fact, it got to a point where I would look forward to his visits solely to bask in his scent.
AZARRO!!
Were it not for his weekly visits, I wouldn't have the need to pick up the keyboard and sniff out his scented fingertips all over the keys.

Yup that novelty wore off fast!

The next computer to enter the home was in my teens.
It was a PC.
One software for word processing was installed and it was, indeed, a primitive one at that.
This was the start of typing school work, and later on in university typing all projects, essays and proposals.

I would have to say that computers took on a whole new purpose once internet became available.
I remember the day I had attended a workshop on internet usage.
I was working with my (then) husband and we needed to upgrade the computer system at work.
The technician was insisting that we attend this workshop that will change the way we see communication.
At the time, listening to the droning of this GURU about the internet, made my husband and I immensely uncomfortable. The talk seemed vague and we couldn't see clearly what the future held for us.

Today, I can't imagine life without it.
I use it daily for pleasure, for work and for boredom!
Google has become my dictionary.
Itunes is my life line.
Facebook is my social life, albeit a virtual one.

My sons take ALL this for granted, in that they do not realize the extent to which information is readily available to them.
I am fully aware that I sound like some elderly person, recapping how it used to be.
That being said, I recall the countless hours of sitting at school and university libraries, sifting through books to search for the knowledge.
Today, one GOOGLES it.

Which brings me back to losing weight on my Twitter account....

Dear Hacker,
You have such wonderful strengths in technology and science.
Can you not use your strengths to better this planet and continue the paths that the JOBS and GATES of this world have done to improve and ease our way in and around this place?